Jay's Pacific Crest Trail Hike 2012: Northern California continued, Sierra City through Lassen Volcanic National Park

Northern California continued, Sierra City through Lassen Volcanic National Park

7/11/2012, Hat Creek Rim Overlook, mile 1,384.0, 5.0 miles traveled.

Today is our scheduled rest day, so after a morning walk to the Hat Creek Rim Overlook, Sarah and I drove to Burney and booked a motel. The overlook is on Highway 44. The interpretive signs are really informative. They discuss the eruption of Mt. Lassen, a pioneer trail, and the fire history of the area. I included some here in case you want to zoom in and do some reading.

Mt. Lassen, 10,457 ft., from Hat Creek Rim Overlook.

Interpretive signs at Hat Creek Rim Overlook.

7/10/2012, after Old Station, mile 1,379.0, 25.0 miles traveled.

We enjoyed a fancy breakfast with Rattlebee at Drakesbad resort for only 5-dollars each. I got a late start, but the trail was pretty flat and smooth, so I was able to keep on schedule. I noticed that I’m gaining weight! I guess even hiking 25 miles a day isn’t burning off these nightly feasts with Sarah. I was in forest with few views for the remainder of my hike through the park. I met Sarah in the evening, and we camped near Highway 44.

Drakesbad Hot Springs.

Lower Twin Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park.

Badger Flat area, Lassen Volcanic National Park.

7/9/2012, Drakesbad Resort, mile 1,354.0, 26.0 miles traveled.

During our 8 mile descent to Highway 36 near Chester, we met Ralph, a trail maintainer that has worked with horses on the PCT for 20 years. He has taken horses over the entire trail, including Forester Pass. His advice was to make sure I had the means of building a fire when I reached Washington. At the highway crossing, we enjoyed sodas from a cache maintained by Piper’s Mom, who we had the joy of meeting as she returned Hand Poet to the trail. Sarah and I parted, and I had a long, hot hike to Lassen Volcanic National Park. Sarah met me at the park boundary, and together, we marveled at Boiling Springs Lake, the world’s third-largest hot spring. We enjoyed a brief soak in the hot springs at Drakesbad Resort, and camped at the Warner Valley Campground.

Getting closer to Mt. Lassen.

Sarah with cone from sugar pine t ree.

Ralph, 20-year veteran trail maintainer, has sectioned entire PCT with horses.

Boiling Springs Lake, Lassen Volcanic National Park.

7/8/2012, after PCT midpoint marker, mile 1,328.0, 25.0 miles traveled.

Sarah and I hiked together for five miles to Humbug Crossing where we washed our feet in a horse trough. Sarah drove ahead, while I continued walking north on a winding ridge-top past Humboldt and Butt Mountains. The ridge was very dry; I had to drop off about ½ a mile to find water. At least there were no mosquitoes! I could hear the throbbing base from Belden all day. I passed the midpoint marker for the PCT, and met Sarah on my 24^th mile. Sarah had charged my phone during her drive, so I didn’t take pictures. I felt lethargic all day from the long climb the day before, but suffered no lasting ill effects other than sore spots on a few toes.

7/7/2012, before Frog Spring, 1,303.0, 27.5 miles traveled.

I was startled awake before dawn to loud stomping sounds in the nearby trees. After I heard a snort, I figured it was a buck that didn’t appreciate our tent. Sarah and I parted ways after breakfast. I descended 5,000 ft. to the main stem of the Feather River. I could hear the throbbing of speakers in Belden from 5 miles away. They hold raves during the weekends. The trail took me through the heart of the party, although most were asleep, recovering from the night before. It was quite a culture shock, with all the scantily clad women milling around tents on the river bank. The trail turned oppressively hot as it left Belden and skirted bedrock on the sundrenched south-facing canyon wall. Luckily, I came upon a beautiful pool in Indian Creek. I jumped in, and then began the 5,000-ft ascent out of the canyon soaking wet. I met Sarah at the top, and we feasted on turkey sandwiches and make camp on a cool, breezy ridge-top.

Silver Lake.

Descending to the Feather River and Belden.

Mel, security worker at Belden.

Eby stamp mill, historic gold ore crusher.

Refreshing pool on Indian Creek.

7/6/2012, Silver Lake Junction, mile 1,275.5, 24.0 miles traveled.

I began the 5,000-ft. climb out of the Feather River Canyon at 6:30 am. Views were again obscured by thick forests. I choked on swarms of gnats until I ascended above the oak trees and into the pines. Sarah met me in the evening, and I gratefully gobbled down 5 boiled eggs and a bunch of cherries. We hiked together for another 10 miles. When we passed the car, I ate 3 cans of pears, one can of Raviolis, and a box of crackers. We made camp near Silver Lake at 7:00 pm.

Looking back while ascending out of the Middle Fork Feather River drainage.

Historic Beckwourth Trail marker.

First, hazy glimpse of Mt. Lassen.

7/5/2012, Middle Fork Feather River, mile 1,251.5, 26.5 miles traveled.

My day began at 6:00 am with gentle climbs. Several types of red wild flowers, including columbine and Indian paintbrush, thrived in the white volcanic soil. I enjoyed watching hummingbirds flit from blossom to blossom. A brilliant western tanager flew across the trail in a blaze of orange and yellow. A thick forest obscured my view for most of the day as I descended from 8,000 to 3,000 ft. elevation. I finally reached the Middle Fork Feather River at 5:30 pm, where I set up camp and enjoyed a refreshing swim.

Columbine patch, Plumas National Forest.

Butterflies, Plumas National Forest.

Foot bridge on Middle Fork Feather River.

Middle Fork Feather River.

7/4/2012, Creek, mile 1,224.0, 26.5 miles traveled.

We started climbing Sierra Buttes at 7:30 am. The trail climbed 3,000 feet in 8 miles, and afforded spectacular views of the Milton Creek Drainage and beyond. Sarah turned back at the top. She would next see me on the evening of July 6, so I carried my tent and sleeping bag. The trail was easy after the climb, following a ridgeline with nice tread, gentle gradients, and beautiful views of the Plumas National Forest. My back began to feel better with the heavier pack. I decided to carry a full pack for the rest of the trip. I had trained with a 40-pound pack all winter, and had developed the necessary muscles. Hiking with a light pack seemed to use other muscles that hadn’t benefited from the training. I caught my first glimpse of Mt. Lassen, 10,457 while on the ridge, and then descended to the base of a huge cliff named Gibraltar, 7,343 ft.