Into the High Sierras: Walker Pass to Kearsarge Pass

6/5/2012, Kearsarge Trailhead, 14.0 miles traveled.

I rose early to a crystal clear, freezing dawn.  I enjoyed views of cascading Bubbs Creek and mist rising off the surrounding Kearsarge Pinnacles.  I joined up with my companions from the day before, and we hiked off the PCT over Kearsarge Pass in order to resupply.  We all found rides into Independence, and enjoyed eating at a diner while we waited for the bus to Bishop.  After a short bus ride, we arrived in Bishop.  The other hikers headed for a motel, while I waited for Sarah to come and get me.  We plan to return to the PCT together on June 9 now that school is out.  I am anxious to return to the beautiful Sierras.

Bubbs Creek.

Bubbs Creek.

Looking south, back up trail towards Forester Pass from Kearsarge Pass trail.

6/4/2012, Near Vidette Meadow, mile 785.0, 22.0 miles traveled.

I began hiking at 5:30 am after sleeping fairly well.  I regained the PCT and headed towards Forester Pass, the highest pass on that trail.  During the long approach, the wind kicked up from the south, and clouds began racing across the sky.  I could hear a low humming sound, and realized it was the wind blasting through the notches on the ridge that I would have to cross.  I was relieved to catch Chief, Cookie, Memphis, and Train at the base of the steep part.  We had fun crossing over the dramatic Forester Pass.  There was less snow on the pass than when Sarah and I had crossed it during late July three years previously.  We descended below tree line just as it started to rain.  I figured my tube tent wouldn’t stand up to the wind, so I sought shelter under a large boulder.  It was so cramped that I couldn’t roll on my side.  I spent a long night watching clouds race across the face of the moon.

Deer near Timberline Lake.

Approaching Forester Pass (notch in center under cloud).

Steep section on south face of Forester Pass.

View northwards from Forester Pass.

JayBird on Forester Pass.

Looking back at the north face of Forester Pass.

Chief, Cookie, and Train traversing snow on descent from Forester Pass.

Storm blowing in towards Kearsarge area.

Seeking sheltered campsite during storm.

6/3/2012, Above Guitar Lake, 18.0 miles traveled.

I awoke to the sound of a drumming grouse at 8:00 am.  I felt refreshed and ready to hike.  I made Crabtree Meadows around noon, and began a 16-mile side trip (round trip) off of the Pacific Crest Trail to climb Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48 states at just less than 14,500’ elevation.  I enjoyed meeting several familiar thru-hikers as they were returning from the mountain.  I reached the summit at about 6:00 pm.  I only had to cross one patch of snow.  The air was hazy due to a forest fire to the south.  Darkness caught me by the time I descended to 12,000 feet elevation, so I camped on a bench above Guitar Lake.  I enjoyed watching the moonlight on the steep mountainsides as I drifted off to sleep.

Sequoias and typical clean understory in Kings Canyon National Park.

Peering through Sequoia snag.

View northwards on approach to Crabtree Meadow.

Crabtree Meadow.

Mt. Whitney from Timberline Lake.

Feisty marmot.

Smokey view east from Mt. Whitney.

Registration box on Mt. Whitney summit.

View south along summit ridge of Mt. Whitney.

View northwards from Mt. Whitney.

Warning sign I didn’t notice until I was on the way down.

Descending Mt. Whitney.

6/2/2012, Past Rock Creek, mile 761.0, 20.0 miles traveled.

Once again, I slept poorly.  A sub-freezing breeze blew down along the creek for most of the night.  I crawled in between the plastic layers of my tube tent for awhile.  Then I became concerned that the bag would loose all its insulating capacity as my body vapor soaked it, so I crawled back out on top of the plastic.  Soon, the outer surface of my bag was frozen.  That seemed to reduce the heat loss to the wind, and I was able to catch a few hours of sleep before dawn.  I tried to catch a little more sleep after the sunlight reached the creek.  I began hiking at 9:00 am, and ascended past Horseshoe Meadows to Poison Creek.  By then I felt horrible, with a headache, nausea, and listlessness.  I remembered feeling similarly when Sarah and I had started our hike of the John Muir Trail at this point three years previously.  I figure that I was feeling the effects of the high altitude.  Tired of sleeping cold and hiking hot, I decided to take advantage of the full moon.  I found a secluded spot in the shade of a granite outcrop, and slept all day until 8:00 pm.  Feeling listless, but with less of a headache, I began hiking at 9:00 pm.  I hiked all night under the full moon.  I lost the trail briefly after Chicken Spring Lake, but used my map to regain it.  I crossed high country near Cottonwood Pass, and then began the long descent towards Rock Creek in Kings Canyon National Park.  The forested north-facing slope was very dark, so I used my headlamp for the last part of the night hike.  I tried not to think of mountain lions.  I scared myself once when my ice axe scraped a boulder and it sounded like a lion scream.  I forded Rock Creek, and found a flat spot as I climbed out of the canyon at 3:30 am.

Trail to Horseshoe Meadows.  Back on familiar trail.  I had hiked the PCT between Horseshoe Meadow and Tahoe City in sections previously.

6/1/2012, Diaz Creek, mile 741.0, 22.0 miles traveled.

I didn’t sleep very well.  I guess I wasn’t used to sleeping so near other hikers.  They got up at 5:00 a.m., so I did also.  It was a cold morning.  I ascended to 10,500 feet and enjoyed views northwards across Death Canyon to the Sierras.  After descending into the canyon, the trail climbed again to above 10,000 feet.  It was a hot day.  I was buzzed by a fighter jet as I crossed a notch in the ridge line.  It couldn’t have been more than 200’ above me.  It was so startling, that I involuntarily dropped to the ground as the sound hit me.  I heard several grouse drumming as I began a long descent towards Diaz Creek.  Clouds rolled in, and they spit rain off and on for the rest of the afternoon.  I was very tired by the time I reached Diaz Creek.  I fell asleep gazing at a large ¾ full moon.

Looking northwards across Death Canyon.

Clouds rolling in from the southwest.

5/31/2012, Cow Creek, mile 719.0, 16.0 miles traveled.

I enjoyed visiting with other hikers as I waited for the general store to open at 9:00 am.  I charged my phone when I heard the generator turn on.  I then mailed my discarded gear home, and reached the trail at 9:30 am.  After traversing another burn, I emerged into beautiful Monache Meadows, and enjoyed views of the South Fork of the Kern River and the High Sierras.  I set up camp in the forest near Cow Creek, and was pleasantly surprised when I was later joined by several more thru-hikers.  We had a pleasant visit and turned in at dark.  We were all excited to be near the Sierras.

Relaxed morning at Kennedy Meadows general store.

No Amp and Train.

More burn.

Monache Meadows.

South Fork of the Kern River.

5/30/2012, Kennedy Meadows, mile 703.0, 19.5 miles traveled.

I awoke after a good night’s sleep and began hiking at 8:00 am.  I soon noticed fresh bear tracks on the trail headed back towards the spring.  It looked like I had just missed a sow and her cub, as the bear tracks were on top of those left by a hiker who had passed by my camp earlier.  I enjoyed a gradual ascent through a quiet forest.  When I reached the top, however, I emerged into a huge burn, and began descending into the Kern River Basin.  I was elated to see my first glimpse of the high Sierras on the horizon.  I reached the South Fork of the Kern River.  I was surprised to see how low the flow was.  It appeared that the spring runoff was over.  I made Kennedy Meadows just before the general store closed, and picked up three packages.  Kennedy Meadows is a community of 200 people.  There is no electricity.  Other than the store, the only facility is Trail Angel Tom’s, where all of the thru-hikers congregate.  I sorted gear, and enjoyed a taco dinner supplied by the generous angel.  I enjoyed talking with Wrong Way, who I had seen last year on the Appalachian Trail in the White Mountains, and three years ago on the Tahoe Rim Trail.  I swapped my new pack for my old, larger one, and stuffed in 6 days worth of food.  I reluctantly strapped an ice axe and crampons on the outside of the pack, figuring it was better to be safe than sorry on Forester Pass.  Without water, my pack weighted 29 pounds.  A young lady named No Amp weighed her pack just before me, and hers weighed 50 pounds.  I slept in the woods behind the store.

Track of hind foot of black bear cub near Fox Mill Spring.

Descending through large burn towards Kennedy Meadows.

South Fork of the Kern River.

5/29/2012, Fox Mill Spring, mile 683.5, 17.0 miles traveled.

After a cold night, I began hiking at 8:00 am.  I descended to Spanish Needle Creek, and then climbed to another ridge top.  As I topped the ridge, I was delighted to hear my phone receive three texts.  They were all from Sarah.  Later, I realized that I was out of Part A of the Aquamira I use to treat drinking water.  It was irksome to run out of one part, while I still had half a bottle’s worth of the other.  I would have to drink untreated water until I reached my mail drop at Kennedy Meadows.  I decided to utilize springs rather than creeks if possible.  I met several other friendly thru-hikers throughout the day.  I decided the hike was more fun when I met several hikers a day rather than being ahead of the pack.  I found a cache of sodas in Chimney Creek left there by a trail angel.  I had a Sprite, while visiting with Tank and On Time, and then ascended to Fox Mill Spring.  I set up camp, and spent the evening relaxing and gathering 5 liters of water.  The pipe dripped at a rate of 1 liter per 25 minutes, so it took a while.  I was relieved to feel better than I had the previous day. 

Unusual, red thistle.

Dripping pipe at Fox Mill Spring.

5/28/2012, Past Joshua Tree Spring, mile 666.5, 14.5 miles traveled.

After eight wonderful zero-days at home, Sarah dropped me off at Walker Pass around 11:30 am.  I then began a shaky ascent back into the mountains on quivery legs with my payload of 5 liters of water and 4-days-worth of food.  I felt listless and had a headache.  After the trail reached the Jenkins/Owens Saddle at about 7,000 feet elevation, I had spectacular views eastwards across the Hwy 395 corridor.  It was very warm, and lizards were out en force.  One lizard sported vertical orange stripes.  I nearly stepped on a large non-venomous snake (perhaps a king snake).  I saw strange looking yucca blossoms with swarms of pollinating flies around them.  The trail then descended from pinion pines back into Joshua trees.   I began looking for a campsite at 6:00 pm.  I had decided to put more effort into finding comfortable spots to avoid becoming run down due to insufficient sleep.  For this leg of the hike (Walker Pass to Kearsarge Pass Trailhead), I decided to use a cheep plastic tube tent for shelter rather than the tent fly.  I intended to use the tube tent primarily as a ground cloth.  If the weather was cold and windy, I would simply crawl between the plastic layers to stay warm.  If it rained, I would string a line through it and fasten the ends to trees.  I found a flat spot on a ridge top at 6:25 pm.  It was windy, at first, but it became calm after sunset.  I enjoyed talking with Castle when she passed by near dark.  She had worked as a ridge runner for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy in Maryland the previous year.  As I lay on my back gazing at the stars, a huge silhouette loomed a few feet above my face.  At first I thought it was a bat, but as it silently swooped and ascended, I realized it was an owl.  Then it came in for another pass, lower this time.  I gave a whistle, and it veered off and eventually perched in a tree behind me.  I had uneasy thoughts of it returning to clutch my face after I was asleep.

 

Looking back while ascending into mountains north of Walker Pass.

Lizard with orange stripes.

Yucca blossom and view eastward from near Owens, Jenkins Saddle.

First Month (from Jay's trail journal)

5/19/2012, Walker Pass, mile 652.0, 23.5 miles traveled.

The sore seemed to have improved.  The big red circle was gone, and the oozing was decreasing.  I called Sarah, and we decided it would be best (it being a Saturday) for her to come and get me at Walker Pass.  I didn’t want to chance the bite getting worse, and then interrupting her work week.  I would take 10 days off from the trail, let the snow melt a little more in the Sierras, and return to Walker Pass on Memorial Day.  I hiked as fast as I could and collapsed at Walker Pass.  Boy was I glad to see her!

Exhausted and ready for a few days off.  Lone Pine, CA.

5/18/2012, Near SC 42, mile 628.5, 25.0 miles traveled.

I felt a little better today.  The sore on my thigh was worse though.  I finally seemed to have escaped the wind turbines, and enjoyed quiet, unburned forests during the morning.  Then I descended back into arid lands with Joshua trees.  I spent most of the day climbing back up.  I camped on a bumpy, slanted ridge top in the lee of some boulders.  I decided to start taking antibiotics that I had brought just in case.  The wind and slanted ground kept me from sleeping well.

 

Back to Joshua trees.

More arid country.

5/17/2012, Past Robin Bird Springs, mile 603.5, 23.5 miles traveled.

I was tired all day.  I leapfrogged with Donkey Legs, who saw a bear near Robin Bird Springs.  He hiked on to escape the bear, but I was too tired.  I hung my food from a branch and had no problems.  I noticed an oozing sore on my left thigh.  It had a 6” red circle around it.  I’m worried it is an infected spider bite.

5/16/2012, mile 580.0, 22.0 miles traveled.

We got a ride back to the trail from some electricians working on the wind turbines.  Feeling run down, I climbed through another wind farm and then dropped to a paved road.  After crossing Interstate 58, I enjoyed a water cache, and began a long ascent.  I was buffeted by winds until I finally reached the cover of pine trees.  I made camp near still more wind turbines.

Windy weather north of I 58.

5/15/2012, Tehachapi, mile 558.0, 2.0 miles traveled.

I hiked out to Tehachapi Willow Springs Road.  After 20 minutes of hitch hiking, two Hispanic ladies stopped and gave me a ride.  They also stopped and picked up Donkey Legs, and we shared a room at the Best Western.  We resupplied at a K mart.  I feasted at a nearby Burger King.

Oak tree under which I slept.

5/14/2012, Oak Creek, mile 556.0, 27.0 miles traveled.

I heard night hawks and coyotes during the night. There was no water at Cottonwood Creek Bridge.  As I stood getting ready to climb six miles and a couple thousand feet to the next listed water source, I saw a tanker truck spraying water on a dirt road near a wind turbine.  I approached the driver when he took a break, and he gave me 1.5 liters, for which I was extremely grateful.  Both of the road workers were astonished to see me come from nowhere and to learn what I was up to.  I climbed to Tyre Horse Creek and enjoyed fresh water.  Then came a long ascent through a fire and ORV-ravaged landscape.  I passed hundreds of wind turbines.  They dominated the landscape both visually and audibly.  I crested the ascent, and dropped to a huge oak tree, where I spent the night amongst the incessant din and flashing lights of the turbines. 

One of thousands of wind turbines.  300’ tall.  Cost is 5 million dollars each not including road work.

Trail angels.

Underground aqueduct and wind turbines in Antelope Valley.

Approaching Tyre Horse Creek.

5/13/2012, mile 529.0, 24.0 miles traveled.

A skunk visited me at dawn.  Luckily, it ran off when I moved.  I descended towards Antelope Valley past blooming ceanothus.  I passed a stagnant pond, but then feared I had made another bad decision, as the day was hot and 10 miles remained between me and Hiker Town – the next water source.  I was saved, however, by a creek that was not mentioned in my guidebook.  I took a shower and called Sarah from Hiker Town.  Then, carrying 5 liters of water, started across the dreaded Antelope Valley at 2:30 pm.  I scared a coyote near the aqueduct.  I walked late into the evening, and camped in a dry wash.

Looking northward into Antelope Valley.

Looking northeast into Antelope Valley (the direction the PCT takes).

The unmentioned creek.

5/12/2012, Liebre Mountain Truck Trail, mile 505.0, 25.0 miles traveled.

I visited a nice water cache in the morning.  I made a poor decision to take only 1 liter for the next 10 miles.  It was a hot day, and I got pretty dehydrated by the time I reached the next water source, a tank.  I drank 3 liters during the next 2 miles.  Two motor bikes passed me on the trail.  All of the trail signs were full of bullet holes.  I dodged another rattle snake, and saw a torpid non-poisonous snake laying on the trail.  I saw a large pine cone from a Coulter pine tree at mile 500.  I camped in a small clearing near the trail.

Coulter pine cone.

5/11/2012, Past Sanfrancisquito Canyon, mile 480.0, 26.0 miles traveled.

After a long road walk out of Agua Dulce, I climbed into the hills.  I saw ravens playing, a golden eagle, and was enveloped by a swarm of bees.  Fortunately, they passed on without stinging me.  Then came a long descent through black oaks.  It was humid amongst the trees, and the gnats were horrible.  After collecting water at a ranger station, I climbed to the top of a ridge and camped in a windy, grassy clearing.

Beginning the ascent north of Agua Dulce.

Looking back during ascent north of Agua Dulce.

5/10/2012, Hikers’ Heaven, mile 454.0, 20.0 miles traveled.

I was awakened by a bird landing on my shoulder.  As I was packing up, a deer watched me curiously.  I descended towards the North Fork Ranger Station, and encountered only a few poodle dog bushes.  A ranger there informed me that I could break out with a rash up to 10 days after exposure.  Nice.  I eventually crossed an interstate highway and walked through Vasquez Rocks County Park.  I resupplied at a store in Agua Dulce, and spent the night at Hikers Heaven, a wonderful hostel.

Vasquez Rocks County Park.

Vasquez Rocks County Park.

5/9/2012, Santa Clara Divide, mile 434.0, 30.0 miles traveled.

I descended through a huge burn.  A ranger told me the burn spread across 250,000 acres.  I ate lunch at the Mill Creek Ranger Station, anticipating a long climb during the heat of the day with the next water 17 miles distant.  The climb was horrible.  The poodle dog bush was unavoidable, and clouds of gnats engulfed me.  I inhaled them, and felt them fluttering around in my sinuses.  To top it off, I nearly stepped on a rattle snake in the grass.  Finally, at 8 pm, I made it out of the poodle dog bushes and camped in a charred clearing.

Sunrise from near Three Points Trail Head.

5/8/2012, Past Three Points Trail Head, mile 404.0, 20.0 miles traveled.

I awoke to a cold, windy morning.  My Thermorest mattress sprang a leak.  I should have packed a ground cloth.  I enjoyed bright blue lizards, and bright red snow plants pushing their way through the pine needles.  I accidently passed a junction with the Burkhart Trail, and continued 2 hours uphill on the wrong path.  The mistake cost me 6 miles and 3 hours.  I resolved to check my map more often.  I marveled at several old yucca stalks that were taller than 10 feet.  I met a couple of mountain bikers illegally using the trail.  Later, a thru-hiking couple warned me of a fire ahead near Agua Dulce.

Snow plant.

View from the Burkhart Trail.

Burn in the San Gabriel Mountains.

More burned area in the San Gabriel Mountains.

5/7/2012, Little Jimmy Spring and Campsite, mile 384.0, 24.0 miles traveled.

A full moon set at sunrise.  I crested the ascent and dropped into the spring at Gaffy Campground for water.  Hiking downhill to Highway 2, I passed a large tour group of girls and their fathers.  The leader enjoyed pointing me out to everyone.  He shouted “If he can do it, you can too.”  Crossing the highway, I began the ascent of Mt. Baden Powell.  There was snow at the top, and I lost the trail for a while.  I used the GPS to find it again.  I descended a windy ridge to Little Jimmy Campsite.  It looked like a scout camp.  The springs were very nice.  Signs warned of bears, but I didn’t have any trouble.  Nobody else was there.

Sunrise from Wright Mountain.

Moonset from Wright Mountain.

South toward LA from San Gabriel Mountains.

Mount Baden Powell.

5/6/2012, Near Wright Mountain, mile 360.0, 18.0 miles traveled.

Wearing long pants in anticipation of poodle dog bush, I said goodbye to Sarah, and began the long ascent into the San Gabriel Mountains.  I didn’t expect to see water for 20 miles.  However, there was a small cache, complete with lawn chairs, a few miles into the hike. I passed through some poodle dog bush, but it was mostly avoidable.  Endemic to the San Gabriel Mountains, it appears after forest fires, but is eventually out competed by other plants.  By 6:45 pm, I had reached pine trees, and enjoyed sleeping on a bed of soft needles with views over Cajon Pass back towards the San Bernardino Mountains.

The infamous poodle dog bush.

Unexpected water cache.

Climbing into the San Gabriel Mountains.

More poodle dog bush.

Cajon Pass and the San Bernardino Mountains from Wright Mountain.

5/5/2012, Best Western Hotel, mile 342.0, 19.5 miles traveled.

I traversed the northern shore of Silverwood Lake and visited the visitor center on its western end.  I was hoping to find an outlet so I could plug in my android and arrange a rendezvous with Sarah.  Even though it was a busy Saturday, the visitor center was closed.  There weren’t even any restrooms.  Several people were milling around looking for some.  I approached a lady leaving the building and asked if I could use an outlet.  “We don’t have any” she replied, and hurried away.  Luckily, a kind visitor let me use her cell phone, and I arranged to meet Sarah at Cajon Pass.  I started hiking the remaining 14 miles, hoping to beat her there.  The trail eventually crested on the lip of Cajon Canyon and offered spectacular views of the San Gabriel Mountains.  I could hear trains as they descended the grade towards LA.  I met a section hiker from Moab on the descent.  He bought me a cup of pineapple from a street vendor when we reached the trailhead.  Soon after, I met Sarah at the hotel, and we had a wonderful visit.  Sarah brought a new JAM 35-L pack.  I had to discard some items in order to fit everything in along with the 5 days worth of food and 5 liters of water I would need for the next day.  I discarded my wool sweater, the snow gear, rain pants, and the nest to my tent.

5/4/2012, Cedar Dam, mile 322.5, 25.5 miles traveled.

I enjoyed a beautiful descent along Deep Creek Canyon past the hot springs.  Eventually, the trail entered a huge valley and traversed the side of a ridge on its southern edge.  I camped in a wash at the foot of Cedar Dam on Silver Wood Lake with Grasshopper and Brakeman, a thru-hiking couple.

Deep Creek canyon, San Bernardino Mts.

Deep Creek Hot Springs, San Bernardino Mts.

Flowers in bloom, descending out of San Bernardino Mts.

5/3/2012, Deep Creek Bridge, mile 297.0, 25.0 miles traveled.

I spent much of the day descending through a giant burn in Holcomb Valley.  I could see fog enveloping the LA Basin in the distance.  I passed by a fisherman who was camped “for 2 months.”  I followed a nice creek late in the day, but the gnats were bothersome.  I camped under a giant foot bridge with three other thru-hikers.

Giant burn in Holcomb Valley, San Bernardino Mts.

5/2/2012, Before Caribou Creek, mile 272.0, 25.0 miles traveled.

I was startled by horrific roaring as I hiked through forest in the San Bernardino Mountains.  After rounding a corner, I saw a chain link pen containing a sleeping grizzly bear.  I couldn’t believe the sounds he made.  They sounded like the T-rex in Jurassic Park.  I then came upon a wonderful cache, complete with sofa, cookies, sodas, TP, and water.  It was maintained by the Big Bear Hostel.  I continued on though, planning to meet Sarah at Cajon Pass.  Later in the day, my feet were very sore.  I came upon Double Springs Trail Camp, and enjoyed a foot bath in a five gallon bucket that was left there for horses.  I continued onwards and made camp about 6:30 pm.  I fell asleep to the sound of great horned owls.   

Grizzly Bear in pen in San Bernardino Mts.

Thru-hikers enjoying fancy water cache near Big Bear Hostel.

View north of arid lands as trail veers westward along transverse ranges.

Joshua tree bloom, San Bernardino Mts.

Blooming phlox, San Bernardino Mts.

5/1/2012, Past Coon Creek Road, mile 247.0, 21.5 miles traveled.

Today was a long climb up the East Fork drainage into the San Bernardino Mountains.  I got my first look at poodle dog bush, reputed to be worse than poison oak.  I met a French couple, who taught me how to say “I’m sorry.”  I finally reached pine trees at 8,500 feet elevation and camped on a thick, spongy bed of needles.

Looking back while ascending the East Fork Mission Creek.

4/30/2012, East Fork Mission Creek, mile 225.5, 14.5 miles traveled.

After a wonderful breakfast with Ziggy and The Bear, I left a donation and continued north.  I was pretty gimpy from the blister on my heel, but I managed to reach the East Fork of Mission Creek after entering the San Gorgonio Wilderness.  There, I fell asleep to the sounds of frogs and gurgling water and watched bats chasing mosquitoes.

Ziggy and The Bear, superb Trail Angels.

Looking south at Fuller Ridge (Castle Rocks, 4/28 campsite, in middle horizon).

Whitewater River in San Gorgonio Wilderness.

San Gorgonio Wilderness.

Looking back at Fuller Ridge from San Gorgonio Wilderness.

4/29/2012, Ziggy and The Bear’s, mile 211.0, 23.5 miles traveled.

I awoke to a calm morning.  My shoes were frozen, but my water bottles weren’t, so it must have not been much lower than freezing.  I put on my crampons to descend Fuller Ridge because the snow was very hard.  After descending to 7,000 feet, I took off the crampons and continued on clear trail.  I should have changed into dry socks, but I continued to descend clear down to 1,198 feet elevation.  While crossing the San Gorgonio pass towards Interstate 10, I lost the trail as it passed through a construction site.  I followed a wash towards an underpass on the highway, knowing the PCT had to cross there.  About ½ mile from the underpass, a man on an ATV zoomed up and offered me a ride.  I accepted, feeling it would be rude to decline, and he took me to the underpass.  There, he had sodas and beers.  He was a trail angel named DNA.  He advised me to hitch into Palm Springs rather than Cabazon if I wanted lodging.  When I began hitching on an on-ramp, a man from a car parked nearby motioned me over.  It was That Guy and Burrito, notorious trail angels.  They whisked me to an Albertsons, waited while I shopped, and then dropped me off at Ziggy and The Bear’s.  Ziggy, an elderly lady, gave me a tub and some hot water in which to soak my feet.  That really choked me up.  I discovered I had a large blister on my left heel.  After walking from the hostel back to where the ATV had picked me up, I returned to the hostel for salad and ice cream.  Pockets, owner of the house, advised me on how to treat the blister.  He told me to insert a thread loop through it so the thread would wick the fluid out of it.  I enjoyed visiting with three other thru-hikers, and then slept in the backyard.  I finally got to charge my android.

4/28/2012, Castle Rocks on Fuller Ridge, mile 187.5, 16.5 miles traveled.

It was 40 degrees this morning.  I soon encountered snow.  My android battery was completely dead, so I relied on footprints, backed up by my topo map to navigate.  I tried out my crampons and ice axe.  I caught one foot on the straps of my other and took a spectacular fall, flinging my ice axe about 50’ in the process.  Guess I need a little work on my self arrest technique!  At least I found out before the high Sierras!  There were tons of day hikers at Saddle Junction from Idyllwild.  The trail was very obscure between there and the junction with Wellmans Cienaga Trail.  The trail was clear between there and the Deer Springs area.  After that, I was on a north-facing, steep slope.  I could see Fuller Ridge, but I had trouble finding the trail to it.  At one point, the single pair of tracks I was following led me to a hiker returning my direction.  He was giving up.  I eventually found the trail and traversed the steep cirque to the ridge.  I camped at 8,500 feet elevation near a pile of rocks named Castle Rocks.

4/27/2012, San Jacintos, mile 171.0, 20.0 miles traveled.

It was a cool, breezy day.  The trail ascended , dropped, and ascended again.  I then had to descend about 500’ in ¼ mile to collect water at beautiful Apache Springs.  I saw only two people on the trail today.  They were section hikers headed south.  I camped looking over Palm Springs twinkling way below me in the distant southeast.

Climbing into the San Jacintos.

4/26/2012, Highway 74, mile 151.0, 23.0 miles traveled.

I slithered out of my collapsed tent at dawn to a rainy, windy, 40-degree morning.  I hurriedly stuffed all of my sodden gear into my pack and headed up the trail.  After descending off Combs Peak, getting below the storm, I lay everything out to dry in the sun.  It didn’t take long.  As I climbed towards the San Jacinto Mountains, I passed a water cache with an official registration book.  I was the 151^st thru-hiker to sign it during the 2012 season.  I figured many of those before me would hitch back to Lake Morena for the kick-off party.  I wasn’t interested in the party because they were expecting over 600 people.  My right foot had been sore for a few days.  I finally reinforced the arch of my right insole with some duct tape and it seemed to help.  I reached highway 74 too late in the day to visit the Paradise Cafe.  I dug up my ice axe and crampons that I had buried there earlier, and set up camp.  My android battery was very low.  I was concerned about navigating through snow on Fullers Ridge without GPS.

Drying out gear after storm and hasty descent.

Climbing towards San Jacinto Mts.

View east from trail while climbing towards San Jacinto Mts.

4/25/2012, Past Trail Angel Mike’s, mile 128.0, 19.0 miles traveled.

I found the post office in Warner Springs and picked up a pre-mailed package.  After enduring a long-cut back to the PCT (through a golf course, past bee hives, over a creek and several fences), I celebrated by eating a 16-ounce salami at Agua Caliente Creek.  I enjoyed dramatic scenery as I ascended into the Anza Borega Desert State Park.  Ominous clouds indicated a storm was approaching.  I visited with thru-hikers who were staying at Trail Angel Mike’s and continued onwards.  Darkness and fog forced me to camp on a steep ridge.  High winds during the night collapsed half of my tent.  I huddled in the foot end, not wishing to slither out through the rain soaked collapsed end.  It was a long night.

Agua Caliente Creek

Lizard in Anza Borega Desert State Park.

Spring and water treatment chemicals, Anza Borega Desert State Park.

Ceanothus in Anza Borega Desert State Park.

4/24/2012, Canada Verde Creek, mile 109.0, 23.0 miles traveled.

I awoke to the sound of coyotes and a collapsed tent.  I haven’t mastered setting up the tent in windy weather yet.  I startled a deer and several quail as I approached a water cache at 9 am.  I crested the San Felipes and descended on a very circuitous route towards Warner Springs.  The winding path eventually straightened out and crossed prairie lands.  I camped beside a creek which served as a commuting route for local cattle.

Unfurling yucca blossom, San Felipe Hills.

Yucca blossoms in San Felipe Hills.

Water cache in San Felipe Hills.

Poison oak approaching Warner Springs.

Prairie approaching Warner Springs.

4/23/2012, Campsite, mile 86.0, 24.0 miles traveled.

I went kind of picture-crazy today.  I thoroughly enjoyed blooming cacti as I descended from the Laguna Mountains, crossed Earthquake Valley, and ascended into the San Felipe Hills.  I saw lots of thru-hikers waiting out the mid-day heat at Scissors Crossing. 

Steve’s tent near empty fire tank.

Descending from the Laguna Mountains toward Earthquake Valley.

Beavertail cactus in bloom.

Horned toad?

Northward towards San Felipe Hills.

Cactus in bloom.

Northward towards Scissors Crossing and the San Felipe Hills.

Blooming barrel cactus.  Ascending into the San Felipe Hills.  Note fog trapped by ridge to the west.

Ocotillo in bloom in San Felipe Hills.

Close-up of ocotillo in bloom in San Felipe Hills.

Rattle snake in San Felipe Hills.

My tent with Laguna Mountains to the south.

4/22/2012, Fire tank, mile 62.0, 20.5 miles traveled.

The morning temperature at nearly 6,000 feet elevation was in the low 40’s.  I resupplied at a store near the trail, and enjoyed hiking along a ridge through the Laguna Mountains.  The views to the east were spectacular.  I was thankful that the trail wasn’t any farther east, as the landscape there looked like Mars it was so arid.  Late in the afternoon, I passed by a water source that was a little off the trail, gambling that the fire tank ahead would be full.  I lost the gamble, so I went to bed without dinner to conserve water.  I had drunk 7 liters that day, so I wasn’t desperate.  I had a nice visit with Steve, another thru-hiker who camped by the empty tank.

Laguna Mts. with blooming ceanothus.

4/21/2012, Burnt Rancheria Campground, mile 41.5, 21.0 miles traveled.

After a sad farewell to Sarah, I began a gradual climb into the Laguna Mountains.  I saw lots of rabbits, a rattlesnake, a snake that had black and yellow bands, turkey vultures, and acorn woodpeckers.  I ripped the seat out of my shorts, and used duct tape to repair them.  I passed about 9 thru-hikers, but they weren’t very talkative due to the heat I suppose.  I met a friendly couple at the Burnt Rancheria Campground.  They gave me apples, cheese, and a diet coke.  The wife even offered me her husband’s shorts!  I consumed 7 liters of water during the day.

 

Turkey vulture roost.


4/20/2012, Lake Morena County Park, mile 20.5, 20.5 miles traveled.

Sarah dropped me off at the Mexican border at 7:30 am.  It was a cool, clear day.  My cheap thermometer read 56ºF.  I was surprised at how un-remote the area was.  I was also surprised at the lushness of the vegetation.  Green grass filled the spaces between bushes that were taller than me.  I was particularly impressed by the gigantic, fragrant yucca blooms. The only un-green areas in the landscape were granite outcrops.  I soon learned that rattle snakes frequented the rocky spots.  Both forks of Campo Creek were flowing, as was Hauser Creek.  Hauser Canyon was much larger and deeper than I had pictured it.  I was surprised to find Sarah sitting next to the trail as I descended towards Hauser Creek.  We hiked together back to Lake Morena County Park where she had left our car.  We had a relaxing evening in the campground.  I was thankful that I had been able to slack pack my first day.  I drank 4 liters of water while hiking, and 3 more in camp.  The temperature topped out at 85ºF. 

Yucca in bloom about 5 miles into hike.

First rattlesnake of the trip.