Northern Oregon: Willamette Pass to the Columbia River

Northern Oregon: Willamette  Pass to the Columbia River

8/17/2012, Cascade Locks, mile 2,155.0, 15.5 miles traveled.

I felt better in the morning.  I enjoyed a beautiful, cool morning as I walked past the many waterfalls on Eagle Creek.  I was amazed at the number of people I saw camping and day hiking there.  I took the bike path from the Eagle Creek trail head back to the official PCT at Cascade Locks.  There, I was happy to meet my parents and take a precious zero day.

Waterfall on Eagle Creek, Mark O Hatfield Wilderness.

Brink of waterfall on Eagle Creek.

Exposed section of trail on Eagle Creek.

Tunnel Falls on tributary of Eagle Creek.

Narrows on Eagle Creek, Mark O Hatfield Wilderness.

Falls on tributary of Eagle Creek, Mark O Hatfield Wilderness.

Lower Punch Bowl Falls, Eagle Creek, Mark O Hatfield Wilderness.

Wauna Falls, Eagle Creek, Mark O Hatfield Wilderness.

Bike path from Eagle Creek Trailhead to Cascade Locks with warning.

8/16/2012, Eagle Creek Trail, mile 2,139.5 23.0 miles traveled.

After a climb out of the Sandy River Canyon, the trail stuck to the ridge tops as it skirted the Bull Run Watershed and headed towards the Columbia River.  I’m glad the trail was easy because I felt pretty bad.  It was either the Giardiasis or the medicine I took for it.  I took the alternate route off the PCT to Eagle Creek.  The scenery is better.  It would have been designated as the official route except that it wasn’t suitable for horses.  When I made camp, it was hot, humid, and dead calm.  I skipped dinner due to a lack of appetite.

Devils Club, and natural footbridge over Muddy Fork Sandy River.

Spider at mouth level across trail.

Mt. Hood, 11,239 ft., from near Lolo Pass.

Fungus on log.

8/15/2012, Ramona Falls, mile 2,116.5, 22.0 miles traveled.

Today my stomach started hurting.  I felt bloated and had occasional stabbing pains in my gut.  I kept thinking of another thru-hiker who had similar symptoms and was diagnosed with giardiasis.  I decided to start a seven-day course of metronidazole which I had brought just in case.  I didn’t want to wait for the symptoms to worsen.  I picked up a package with 2 days of food at Timberline Lodge.  I skipped the buffet because I didn’t have an appetite.  I enjoyed hiking on the Timberline Trail that circles Mt. Hood.  It was the trail my father took me on for my first backpacking trip.  I had a nice visit with Andrew as we dropped into the Sandy River Canyon.  I camped near Ramona Falls.  It was in a dark ravine that reminded me of hollows in the Appalachians.   

Mt. Hood, 11,239 ft., from near Buzzard Point.

One of hundreds of webs across trail.

Mt. Hood, 11,239 ft., and White River from near Pucci Glade.

Mt. Hood, 11,239 ft., from rim of Zigzag Canyon.

Mt. Hood, 11,239 ft., from rim of Zigzag Canyon.

Ramona Falls, Mt. Hood National Forest.

8/14/2012, Near Highway 26, mile 2,094.5, 28.5 miles traveled.

I felt like I was coming home today.  I crossed Warm Springs Creek and then the Clackamas River.  It was strange to connect the two by foot.  They seemed worlds apart when traveling by car.  I got phone reception near Timothy Lake and enjoyed talking with Sarah.  I also called my parents to arrange our meeting in Cascade Locks.  I was really looking forward to a rest and visit with them.  During the evening, I enjoyed views of Mt. Hood from the Wapinitia Pass area.  I made camp at dusk, and fell asleep to the sounds of nighthawks.  Their wings make a loud buzzing sound when they dive for insects.

Bridge over Warm Springs River, Warm Springs Indian Reservation.

Timothy Lake, Mt. Hood National Forest.

North Arm Timothy Lake.

Mt. Hood, 11,239 ft., from near Wapinitia Pass.

8/13/2012, South Pinhead Butte, mile 2,066.0, 26.5 miles traveled.

I enjoyed a quiet morning crossing beautiful Jefferson Park.  I climbed Park Ridge, and noticed a fire to the northeast which looked like it could reach the PCT.  It would result in a temporary trail closure a few days later.  Snow fields obscured the trail on the north face of Park Ridge.  I eventually found my way past them with the help of my map and GPS.  As I descended towards Breitenbush Road, I met dozens of search and rescue personnel headed back up towards Jefferson Park   They showed me a picture of the lost man, a diabetic who was 5 days overdue.  They asked me to keep an eye out for him as I continued north.  As the day progressed, I noticed the smoke from the fire behind me getting larger and larger.  The day was hot, but I was able to stay cool by soaking my shirt in water whenever I passed a creek.  In the evening, I picked a handful of huckleberries.  When I looked up, there was a fat black bear standing about 50 feet up the trail.  He quickly dropped to all fours and bounced away.  I made camp on the Warm Springs Reservation in a logged area.  I was impressed at the way they had left several trees standing and cleaned up the slash.  I wish all the private forests in California were managed that well.

Mt. Jefferson from Jefferson Park.

Park Butte, 6,851 ft., Mt. Jefferson Wilderness.

Smoke from Water Fall 2 Fire on northeastern flank of Mt. Jefferson from near Park Butte.

Waterfall 2 Fire from near Olallie Lake.  Fire would result in 10 mile PCT closure a few days later.

8/12/2012, Whitewater Creek, mile 2,039.5, 26.0 miles traveled.

The scenery today was dominated by Mt. Jefferson.  One damp section of trail was covered with little frogs.  They were about 1-inch long and had narrow yellow lines down their backs.  They would start hoping around as I approached.  It was difficult to avoid stepping on them.  The mosquitoes weren’t too bad.  There were lots of spider webs across the trail though.  I met another through hiker, Andrew, who informed me that a search was in progress for a lost hiker in the Jefferson Park Area.  Toward the end of the day, I was amazed at how steep the landscape was around Russell Creek.  I hoped that the lost hiker hadn’t strayed into that area.

North face of Three Fingered Jack, 7,841 ft., Mt. Jefferson Wilderness.

South Cinder Peak, 6,746 ft., Mt. Jefferson Wilderness.

Mt. Jefferson, 10,497 ft.

Mt. Jefferson, 10,497 ft., from Milk Creek.

8/11/2012, Three Fingered Jack, mile 2,013.5, 25.0 miles traveled.

I was glad to cross the lava field north of McKenzie Pass during the cool of the morning. Even so, the heat eventually caught up to me and it was with great relief that I reached a small lake where I washed my feet and socks.  It didn’t take long for the fine, volcanic dust to permeate my socks and feet again though.  I enjoyed talking with a father and son on a south-bound section.  Later in the day, I crossed the busy highway at Santiam Pass and climbed to above 7,000 feet on the southwest face of Three Fingered Jack.  The mosquitoes were fierce there, so I set up my tent quickly and dove inside.

Looking south at North and Middle Sisters from Belknap Crater, Mt. Washington Wilderness.

Mt. Washington, 7,794 ft, Mt. Washington Wilderness.

2,000 mile mark for PCT north-bounders.

Three Fingered Jack, 7,841 ft., Mt. Jefferson Wilderness.

8/10/2012, Junction with Lava Campground trail, mile 1,988.5, 25.0 miles traveled.

This was one of the most scenic days of my hike so far.  I enjoyed views of the Sisters from a large meadow called Wickiup Plain where Native Americans used to gather for ceremonies.  The landscape became more and more colorful and strange around Opie Dilldock Pass, with red and black cinder cones and bizarre lava fields. I met several Boy Scout groups out for long hikes.  They all seemed to be having fun.  The mosquitoes, which had been bothersome during the previous two days, seemed to disappear after I reached the lava.  What a relief!

View of fog over Elk Lake from Koosah Mountain.

South Sister, 10,358 ft., from Wickiup Plain, Three Sisters Wilderness, Willamette National Forest.

Lupines, Three Sisters Wilderness.

Middle Sister, 10,047 ft., Three Sisters Wilderness.

The Husband, 7,624 ft., Three Sisters Wilderness.

North Sister, 10,085 ft., Three Sisters Wilderness.

Collier Cone, 7,583 ft., Three Sisters Wilderness.

North Sister from Opie Dilldock Pass, Three Sisters Wilderness.

Yapoah Crater, 6,737 ft., Three Sisters Wilderness.

Belknap Crater, 6,872 ft., Mt. Washington, 7,794 ft., Three Fingered Jack, 7,841 ft., and Mt. Jefferson, 10,497 ft. from Yapoah Crater, Three Sisters Wilderness.

Yapoah Crater, Three Sisters Wilderness.

8/9/2012, Past Elk Lake, mile 1,963.5, 25.0 miles traveled.

The trail stayed in deep forest throughout the day.  I passed several ponds and small lakes, but none that seemed worth photographing.  I met Asabout coming the other way.  I had met him several times along the trail because he was doing sections southbound while his wife camped nearby in their RV.  Asabout was moving fast, trying to stay ahead of a couple of horses.  He told me it was his last night on the trail before he had to return to work.  I was sorry to hear a few days later that he passed away in his tent that night.  My deepest sympathies to his wife, family, and friends.  I picked up a package with 6 days worth of food at Elk Lake.  It would get me to my next drop 150 miles away at Timberline Lodge.

8/8/2012, Brahma Lake, mile 1,938.5, 24.5 miles traveled.

Sarah and I said our sad farewells after a couple of restful days in Oakridge.  She dropped me off at the Willamette trail head at 9:00 am on her way home to Nevada.  I really appreciate her companionship and assistance during the summer.  The trail today was predominantly through forest with a few lakes and ponds.  I saw a couple of other thru-hikers, Robin Hood and Bladder Pillow.  I reached Brahma Lake at 8:20 pm.  They and a couple others were already asleep. 

Lower Rosary Lake and Pulpit Rock, 6,384 ft.

Charlton Lake, Willamette National Forest.

Southern Oregon: Ashland to Willamette Pass.

Southern Oregon: Ashland to Willamette  Pass.

8/5/2012, Willamette Pass, mile 1,914.0, 37.0 miles traveled.

We hiked together for six miles until we reached the car at Windigo Pass.  Sarah drove to Willamette Pass and began hiking back towards me at 2:00 pm.  I ascended 1,200 feet to the west shoulder of Cowhorn Mountain.  From there, I could see Odell Lake in the north.  I then descended for seven miles and took a break on the west shore of beautiful Summit Lake.  The next seven miles took me up the southeast side of Diamond Peak.  A thunderstorm developed just as the trail emerged onto open snowfields.  I hurried across the large cirque on the southeast shoulder of Diamond Peak, and met Sarah shortly after the downpour started.  We decided to make a run for the car, even though it was seven miles away and it was 7:00 pm.  The thunder and lightening gradually abated as we scuttled down the northwest side of Diamond Peak.  Darkness caught us long before we reached the car at 11:00 pm.  Sarah had hiked 20 miles by then, and I had hiked 37.  We then drove to Oakridge, and collapsed in a motel.

Monument near Windigo Pass (Sarah).

Resupplying from car at Windigo Pass (Sarah).

Cowhorn Mountain, 7,664 ft., from the south, Umpqua National Forest.

Odell Lake, Willamette National Forest, from north shoulder of Cowhorn Mountain, Umpqua National Forest.

Sawtooth Mountain, 7,301 ft., Willamette and Umpqua National Forests.

Summit Lake, Willamette National Forest.

Summit Lake, Willamette National Forest.

One of many ponds and lakes in the Diamond Peak Wilderness, Willamette National Forest.

Looking south as storm brews over Summit Lake, Willamette National Forest.

Snow covers PCT in cirque on Diamond Peak, 8,744 ft., Diamond Peak Wilderness, Willamette National Forest.

8/4/2012, Tolo Camp, mile 1,877.0, 28.5 miles traveled.

Sarah and I parted.  She hiked back to the car, while I continued north.  I had to step over many blow-downs (fallen trees) until I crossed the north boundary of Crater Lake National Park.  I enjoyed rare views as I crossed the west shoulder of Mt. Thielsen.  Diamond Lake looked especially inviting because water was scarce on this section of trail.  I crossed small snow patches on the north side of Thielsen, and collected water from Thielsen Creek.  After more forest, I emerged at a saddle by Tipsoo Peak which was the highest point (7,560 ft.) on the trail in Oregon and Washington.  The day was warm and muggy, and the mosquitoes were bothersome.  I met Sarah in the late afternoon, and we hiked until dusk to a nice campsite near Six Horse Springs.  We felt very fortunate to have the shelter of our bug-free tent.

Mt. Thielsen, 9,182 ft., and Hollys Ridge from the south, Mt. Thielsen Wilderness, Freemont – Winema National Forests.

Diamond Lake, Umpqua National Forest.

Mt. Thielsen, 9,182 ft., from near its west shoulder, Mt. Thielsen Wilderness, Freemont – Winema National Forests.

Mt. Thielsen, 9,182 ft., from Thielsen Creek, Mt. Thielsen Wilderness, Freemont – Winema National Forests.

Sawtooth Ridge, Mt. Thielsen Wilderness, Freemont – Winema National Forests.

Tipsoo Peak, 8,034 feet, from highest point along Oregon and Washington PCT, 7,560 ft. .

Miller Lake, Fremont – Winema National Forests.

Old PCT marker near Windigo Pass, Umpqua National Forests (Sarah).

8/3/2012, Near Timber Crater, mile 1,848.5, 20.5 miles traveled.

The morning was very cool, about 58˚F.  Sarah and I walked to Highway 62, where she had parked the day before.  She drove to the north end of Crater Lake and began hiking back towards me, while I began the ascent to the lake’s rim.  As the day warmed, the mosquitoes became fierce.  There were so many of them around my head, I had to be careful not to inhale them.  Fortunately, the mosquitoes disappeared when I reached the rim of Crater Lake.  The views were breath-taking as I followed the trail around the western rim.  I took a short side trip up to a lookout on The Watchman, where I could see from Mt. Shasta in the south to the South Sister in the north.  Unfortunately, even though I had texted Sarah, she didn’t have reception, and passed by the side trail on her way south.  I met my parents at a parking lot below The Watchman (by luck).  They found Sarah, while I finished the hike on the rim and reached the car.  We then enjoyed a wonderful picnic back near the historic lodge in Rim Village.  Sarah then dropped me back at the north side of the lake and drove north to the Grouse Hill trailhead.  We met up in the evening and continued hiking north through flat pumice fields chocked with stunted pine trees.  At dusk, we startled several elk.  I didn’t get a good look at them, but they were very large and had tan rumps.

  

Crater Lake from Rim Village, Crater Lake National Park.

Wizard Island from near Discover Point, Crater Lake National Park

Llao Rock, 8,049 ft., Crater Lake National Park.

Lookout tower on The Watchman, 8,013 ft., Crater Lake National Park.

Looking south from Devils Backbone, Crater Lake National Park.

8/2/2012, Past Union Peak Trail junction, mile 1,828.0, 25.0 miles traveled.

I spent the morning in thick forest, but enjoyed spectacular views from the shoulder of Devils Peak in the early afternoon.  As I looked northwards, it took me awhile to realize that the distant peaks were actually the rim of Crater Lake.  The day turned hot as I continued through a large burn and then crossed the Oregon Desert (area with pumice soil).  I was happy to meet Sarah in the late afternoon.  We caught up on each other’s news, ate a dinner she had packed in, and eventually camped in a flat forested area.

 

Devils Peak, 7,682 ft., Sky Lakes Wilderness.

Looking southeast toward Klamath Lake from shoulder of Devils Peak.

Looking south toward Mt. McLoughlin from shoulder of Devils Peak.

Looking north toward rim of Crater Lake from shoulder of Devils Peak.

Lupines, Rogue River – Siskiyou National Forest (Sarah).

8/1/2012, Divide Trail junction, mile 1,803.0, 26.5 miles traveled.

Sarah and I enjoyed views of Mt. McLoughlin as we finished hiking across the lava fields in the morning shade.  We met a south-bound thru-hiker named Beads.  She hiked with a German shepherd named Rock Star.  She put booties on him whenever they crossed lava.  We reached the Highway 140 trailhead, where Sarah had parked the day before, at about 10:00 am.  I gathered food for the next 2 days.  Sarah spent the rest of the day mailing food packages ahead for me (I’m so lucky!), and spent the night with my parents in Talent.  The trail offered only a few glimpses of nearby peaks and lakes as it continued through the forest.  At the end of the day, I reached a steep, rocky ridge where I could finally see out.  I found a small flat spot in a saddle to camp on.  I could hear the wind rushing through a cleft a few hundred yards away, but it was calm where I camped.  I enjoyed watching a full moon rise over distant Klamath Lake.

Mt. McLoughlin, 9,495 ft., Sky Lakes, Wilderness, Rogue River – Siskiyou National Forest (Sarah).

Crossing lava beds on Brown Mountain, Rogue River – Siskiyou National Forest.

Jay meets south-bound thru-hiker, Beads, and companion, Rock Star (Sarah).

Fourmile Lake, Sky Lakes Wilderness, Fremont – Winema National Forests.

Full moon rising over Klamath Lake.

7/31/2012, Near Brown Mountain, mile 1,776.5, 25.0 miles traveled.

Conditions were perfect for hiking again today: cool with hardly any mosquitoes.  The trail made a gentle, 7-mile ascent and remained fairly level for the rest of the day.  Again, there were no clear views from the forested trailside.  I visited one of the only shelters on the PCT (South Brown Mountain Shelter), but it was too early in the day to stop there.  I met Sarah in the late afternoon, and we found a slanted tent spot amongst the lava fields on Brown Mountain.

South Brown Mountain Shelter.

Imported cinder tread across lava fields on Brown Mountain, Rogue River – Siskiyou National Forest.

Hollow log with spokes (Sarah).

7/30/2012, Hyatt Lake Recreation Area, mile 1,751.5, 25.0 miles traveled.

After a wonderful sojourn with my parents in Talent, Oregon, Sarah dropped me off at the Interstate-5 trailhead at 7:30 am.  The PCT meandered eastward to Pilot Rock, and then slowly turned north.  There were lots of little ups and downs and very few views as the trail stayed in thick forests.  I heard two ravens quarreling in a fir tree.  Out of nowhere, a hawk swooped in and swung its outstretched talons towards one of them.  The quarry flew from his perch just in the nick of time.  I met Sarah at 4:00 pm as she was talking with a young trail crew just finishing their day of removing star thistles from a quarter acre area by the trail.  They informed us that a natural predator moth would be introduced next year to hopefully finish the job. 

Blossom near Hyatt Reservoir (Sarah).

NYC crew removing star thistle from PCT trailside near Green Springs Mountain (Sarah).